Exploring Évora: Ancient Roots, Timeless Traditions

Nestled in Portugal’s Alentejo region, Évora is a treasure trove of history, culture, and crafts. With its ancient roots, this UNESCO World Heritage city invites visitors to step back in time while savouring the delights of modern traditions. My recent visit to Évora and its surroundings left me enchanted, from Roman ruins to handmade rugs and a taste of some of the region’s finest olive oil and wine.

Walking through Évora’s historic center, it’s impossible to miss the Roman Temple, an enduring symbol of the city’s ancient history. Often referred to as the Temple of Diana (though its actual dedication remains debated), this iconic structure dates back to the 1st century AD. Its Corinthian columns, made of granite and marble, stand proudly against the blue Alentejo skies, offering a striking contrast between past and present. It’s easy to imagine the temple bustling with activity during Roman times, serving as a place of worship or gathering.

The streets surrounding the temple are alive with charming stores, each offering a slice of Portugal’s unique heritage. Cork products—bags, hats, and even umbrellas—line the shelves, showcasing the creativity of local artisans. Portugal is the world’s largest producer of cork, and seeing the versatility of this sustainable material up close is truly inspiring. Another delight? The whimsical displays of tinned sardines, each tin adorned with vibrant illustrations and retro designs. These aren’t your ordinary pantry staples; they’re gifts with personality!

Tucked away in Évora’s Public Garden, the Ruínas Fingidas, or Fake Ruins, are a delightful surprise. Built in the 19th century as a playful reinterpretation of ancient architecture, these whimsical structures blend original medieval and Roman elements with fantastical designs. Arches soar into the air, hinting at grandeur, while stone stairways and fragmented columns evoke a dreamlike quality. Standing among these “ruins,” I found myself marveling at their artistry and imagining how I could translate their shapes and forms into my own work. The Ruínas Fingidas are a perfect example of how creativity can transform even the remnants of history into something uniquely inspiring.

Just a short drive from Évora, I had the privilege of tasting olive oil made in a small scale in a family owned olive grove. 5 hectares compared to the 600 of surrounding groves, are still enough to produce a wonderful extra virgin olive oil with an amazing and touching history. And we had the privilege of touching and photographing one of the oldest olive trees in the region—a 2000-year-old olive tree that still thrives today. As we swirled, sniffed, and sipped, João shared stories of the tree’s resilience, and his own connection to the land, as his grandfather purchased the land and planted the olive trees as a way to add to the family’s finances. They owned a grocery store and he would sell the olives there. In between the rows of olive trees, planted at a specific distance, he planted wheat, so he could sell that too. The brand is called El Amor e Cego, or Love is Blind – working in this small olive grove to produce quality olive oil is definitely a labour of love.

No visit to Évora would be complete without a taste of its renowned wines. At Cartuxa Winery, we were treated to a journey through the flavors of the Alentejo region. The vineyard’s commitment to sustainability and excellence was evident in every glass. From velvety reds to crisp whites, each sip told a story of sun-soaked vines and meticulous craftsmanship. My favourite part? Of course! The huge vessels from 1875 where they still produce wine. A specific wine that only 17 wineries in Portugal produce called “Vinho de Talha”. And we got to try it! You can see the bottle below, with that wonderful label. And if you are wondering … yes, I asked for the empty bottle and soaked it overnight to peel the label off. I am happy to say that it worked, and it is now sewn onto one of the pages of the Portugal book I’m creating.

A short trip from Évora brought us to Arraiolos, famed for its hand-embroidered rugs. At the rug interpretation center, we watched skilled women bring intricate designs to life using traditional methods passed down through generations. Each stitch told a story of heritage, patience, and dedication. Seeing these artisans at work gave me a newfound appreciation for the art form and its enduring legacy.

Évora and its surroundings offer a rich tapestry of experiences that blend history, culture, and gastronomy. Whether marveling at ancient ruins, indulging in local flavors, or admiring artisanal crafts, this journey reminded me of the importance of preserving traditions while embracing modernity.

If you find yourself in Portugal, make time to explore this captivating region. I promise it will leave you inspired and full of stories to share! And if you are thinking “I wish I had been there”, join me next May as we’ll be doing it all over again!

Until I write again, stay warm!

Ana